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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.